Fashion

Photographer Boris Mäemets

 

I went to see fashion photographer Boris Mäemets exhibition at Estonian Museum Of Applied Art And Design in September 2017. 

Boris Mäemets (1929) was fashion photographer during Soviet Estonia between 1959 and 1975. The beginning of his career started in the first advertising bureau of Estonia, after he had spend couple of years in Siberia because of resisting the Soviet occupation. Mäemets took photographs of exhibitions and interiors as well, but the main focus was in fashion. He signed a contract of Tallinn Fashion House, what published fashion periodical Siluett in 1967. In the beginning of 1970’s Siluett’s print run was more than 50 000 copies in Estonia and Russian edition ran to 300 000 copies.

Siluett included compulsory reverence to the Soviet ideology, but Mäemets’s photographs had clear propaganda about Western fashion and way of life. Photo shoots took place in Tallinn’s Old Town, natural settings, in front of modern buldings, various interiors and exhibition halls. Mäemets liked to shoot with Kodak’s wide film and one scene would usually take about 12 frames.

Vogue and other Western fashion magazines were purchased from antique shops and sent by relatives who had fled to the West. In Siluett they didn’t accept bold poses but Mäemets’ archive reveals that the expressive poses and models flirting with the camera was his main subject of interest. Mäemets preferred Helle Ryzhova and Faime Jürno from the fashion house’s models.

In 1975 Mäemets started take photographs to Leningrad’s fashion house where was offered better working conditions, professional studio. The exhibition “In front and behind the lens” showed photos that were published in Siluett and also photos what pleased only Mäemets. Photos tell a story of one of the most important eras of Estonian fashion.

 

Victorian Fashion

 

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I went to visit in KUMU Art Museum in Tallinn and one of the exhibitions was Poetry And Spleen: The Victorian Female Image And Fashion.

If you’re traveling in Tallinn I recommend to visit in KUMU Art Museum. It is quite big art museum with several interesting exhibitions at the same time. I write to this post only about one exhibition what was there this summer, Poetry And Spleen: The Victorian Female Image And Fashion from Aleksandre Vassiliev’s collection. I will do soon another post about other exhibition there.

Exhibition consisted of nearly 50 costumes and more than 150 accessories, along with carefully selected colour fashion plates and photos, which convey the atmosphere of the era. Victorian femininity in 19th century was repressed and chained. In fashion it appeared as new silhouette, what was made with corset and hoop skirt. Name of the era has come from English queen Victoria (1837–1901), who is internationally known symbol of 19th century fashion.

English and French design had conflict in the era. Most of the haute couture was made in Paris while England has the queen Victoria. The dominant emotion of era was melancholy, and the poet Charles Baudelaire described this continuous feeling of melancholy by using the term spleen.

Dresses of the upper class were decorative with embroidery and lace. You could view in the exhibition hand sewed details from close and made a recognition how small women have been. Many of the dresses were dark and black, what made them very gothic.

KUMU’s website: http://kumu.ekm.ee/en/
You can check all the photos I took here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/98052824@N03/albums/72157672387628276

 

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Näytös16

 

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Näytös16, Aalto University of Arts, Design and Architecture’s fashion show was colorful and comprehensive.

Näytös16 was held at Merikaapelihalli, Kaapelitehdas in May 25th. There was presented 180 outfits from 32 designers. Show was very colorful and imaginative. There was nearly half and half outfits for women and men. Responsible Tutor was senior lecturer Tuomas Laitinen.

Näytös Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/naytos14/?fref=ts

Show began with four collections from Aalto Alumnis. Julia Männistö had designed collection inspired of ice hockey and part of the models walked by ice skates (photos above). With strings appliqued collection in tones of blue was ambitious.

Another alumni collection for men was Tiina Sirén’s collection with floral prints and long coats. There was golden and red trousers made of latex and artificial leather and fine belts.

 

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Luyi Liu had made BA Graduate Collection with huge bows in front of the dresses. Print fabrics and mesh made and collection look punk and little anarchistic but still girly. Julia Montin’s BA Graduate Collection for women had elf vibe with hoodies and knits with holes.

 

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There was a lot of yellow overall in this year’s show. Maria Korkeila had made a couple of entirely yellow outfits for men in her BA Graduate Collection. Outfits stood out with humorous pin up girl prints. Lucille Pialot’s MA1 Fashion Collection project with folklore vibe floral prints and yellow, green and blue color combination was beautiful. Hole pattern coats were awesome.

Here’s only a couple of outfits from the show and I recommed to check out all the photos from the show here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/98052824@N03/albums/72157668869723426

 

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