Hippie Ethics

 

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The idea for doing this hippie outfit for Natja K. Fall/Winter 2014/2015 Collection was having a piece of artificial fur, but first of all, photoshoot location. I got an idea very quickly, when I planned how to shoot two different photoshoots on same day.

This was easy and quick outfit to do compared to winter coat on last collection post. I did harem trousers with pockets of recycled dress by Gudrun Sjödén and from a tricot shirt, what I had done years ago by myself. It was another from two similar Nanso tricot shirts, what I reused this year. That Nanso’s tricot has special quality, the black color doesn’t fade even if it has been washed many hundred times. The shirt of the outfit has been done from recycled H&M top, recycled T-shirt, glossy coated tricot remnants, recycled stretch satin, recycled buttons and little piece of new stretch lace. It is a shame, that the back of the shirt and small details of the front of the shirt doesn’t show in the post.

The vest has been done of recycled corduroy dress and artificial fur remnants. Original pockets of the dress are still in use in vest, but now they are higher. I hasn’t visited in Finnish National Museum for 15 years, so it wasn’t exactly sure how the things will go inside the museum, but Hanna did excellent transformation to a hippie in museum.

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Fabrics of the Vest

Bodice: Recycled corduroy, 100% cotton. From UFF
Fur: Artificial fur, 100% polyester. From Halpala (that company doesn’t exist anymore).

Fabrics of the Shirt

Bodice: Recycled H&M top, 100% cotton, mesh part: 100% polyester.
Addiotional fabrics: Recycled T-shirt, 100% cotton from Fida Lähetystori, glossy tricot remnant, 100% polyester from Eurokangas, recycled polyester satin, 98% polyester, 2% elastane, originally from Eurokangas.
Addiotional materials: Recycled heart shape buttons, stretch lace from Eurokangas

Fabrics of the Harem Trousers

Fabric with pattern: Recycled dress, 98% cotton, 2% metallic threads. Originally from Gudrun Sjödén.
Black tricot: Recycled, 49% cotton, 49% modal, 2% elastane. Originally from Nanso.
Lining of the pockets: Recycled, 100% viscose.

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Hippie Jewelry

In this outfit I concentrated even more to making jewelry than clothes, because the outfit needed colours. I did a necklace from recycled wine bottle decoration and small jingle bells. Big sequins were very randomly on wine bottle decoration and I made them to be symmetrically. Then I added little jingle bells, what I bought couple years ago from Tiimari. Unfortunaly I hadn’t red string for make decoration to be a necklace, so it is silver and also recycled.

For a head jewelry I painted some different colored feathers with acrylic gold paint and added them to a recycled silvery string. Also feathers were bought from Tiimari couple years ago. Again all materials used for jewelry were already in my stock. I have bought some stuff for this kind of design need, when I have seen materials somewhere nearly free. This all has started, because I have recycled and saved materials for reuse, but often something more is needed.

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Black Elf Cap

 

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This year’s Christmas was black, without any snow and decided to do a black elf cap.

Materials wasn’t very cheap for this elf cap, they cost over 25 euros in Eurokangas. But the result is fine. This elf cap doesn’t belong to my ethical collection. Merry Christmas!

Sydney Velvet: Tuft: 100% viscose, base: 100% cupro. No origin country told.
Bridal Fur: 85% polyacryl, 15% polyester. Origin country: Netherlands.

Brocade Parka

 

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This brocade parka coat is again part of my ethical Natja K. Fall/Winter 2014/2015 Collection. It has been made mainly of brocade piece of fabric taken from the end of bolt and leather remnants.

This coat is winter coat with wool lining and it is very warm. One fellow student in Lahti Institute of Design gave this piece of brocade to me in 2004, because she obviously thought, that she doesn’t know what to do of it. She had ordered it as extra piece of fabric, when she ordered her degree work materials from Singels Stoffen, Netherlands. The problem with fabric was amount, only 1,5 metres and it’s quality. I remember how she was actually disappointed with many materials, what she offered from Singels Stoffen. The problem with quality of the brocade is that it is very loose weaved and there comes easily fuzz to the material. But now the idea of my collection is to be ethical and to use mostly materials, what I already have in my stock. So here’s the result.

Parka coats are usually made of plain cotton or some coated material, but I wanted to do parka coat of this brocade. I used the back side of the fabric, what is mainly black and the front side of the fabric is red with black and shiny diamond pattern. Making this coat took a lot of time, because I have made half of the sleeves, outer side of the hood and inner part of the front side of small leather remnant pieces. I also had to use here a lot of new buckram from Eurokangas and I ironed buckram to every outer piece of the coat, because leather remnants were so varying quality and brocade so loosely weaved. So the use of new buckram and lining make this coat less ethical. Wool lining is recycled from one other coat, what I have made myself a couple of years ago, but the coat never become my favorite coat.

The inner of the hood is made of the wool scarf, what was machine knitted piece to my own degree collection from Lahti Institute of Design. I ordered thread called Uusi Veera from Wetterhoff, Hämeenlinna and it is made in Finland. Now it is on recycle use, so it is very ethical. There’s same kind of diamond pattern with red on black, what I have designed myself and it fitted well together with brocade of the coat.

Fabrics of the Coat

Back and front: Brocade, end of the bold piece. Fibres probably something like this: 49% polyester, 47% viscose, 4% metallic fibres. From Singels Stoffen
Half of the sleeves, outer of the hood, part of inner front: Lamb and reindeer leather remnants, made in Finland. From Alhskog Leather
Inner of the hood: Wool scarf, knitted with knitting machine. 100% wool thread called Uusi Veera, Made in Finland. From Wetterhoff
Fur of the hood: Artificial fur remnant, 100% polyester from Eurokangas
Buckram: 98% cotton, 2% glue from Eurokangas
Wool lining: Recycled, 100% cotton, originally from Eurokangas
Lining: Oslo Lining Satin, 100% viscose. Made in EU. From Eurokangas

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Above you can see the label of the brocade from Singels Stoffen, where’s also it’s price, 4,99€. On the right upper corner you can see the both sides of the brocade. On the left bottom pic there’s part of the additional materials to the coat, what are all recycled stuff. This time I’m not going to explain all details from recycled materials, but some of them are even 30-40 years old.

On the right bottom corner above there’s new additional materials to the coat. Zip is bought from Eurokangas and it’s mark is Opti. Brand belongs to Coats Industry, German manufacturer, what has over 200 years of tradition to make threads and zippers in Germany. Eyelets are from bought from Stockmann. The brand of eyelets is Prym from Prym Group, what is the oldest family-owned business in Germany since 1540. They have very high environmental and social responsibility, what has explained on their website.

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Origins notes of the fabrics in Eurokangas

When I bought buckram and lining I discussed with the salesperson in Eurokangas about the origin notes of the fabrics. In the website of Eurokangas there’s said, that they tell voluntarily where the fabrics have been manufactured. That still doesn’t show in the shop very well, because only in new bolts of fabric there’s origin country announced and for example lining, what I bought it says only “Made in EU”. It will take still a moment after all basic material bolts has changed to new bolts with origin notes. Anyway, in all fabrics, where I found origin note, origin was in Europe and it should be more ethical than in many manufacturers in Asia. Logistic route is surely shorter.

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