Black on Black

 

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First I have to give credit to Jean Paul Gaultier of an idea to this outfit. You can see what Gaultier has designed here on my Pinterest, where I collect idea library also for this Natja K. F/W 2014/2015 remnant and recycling collection. I have been MC jacket girl since 1999, when I designed one of my most used jackets ever and after that I have designed a couple more. I can proudly tell about that jacket from 1999, that it is made of two times recycled leather, what has been in use every year since 1960’s. So, because I have so much leather remnants I naturally wanted to do at least one MC style cloth more for this collection.

This outfit was so far the most trickiest one to do for this collection, because making skew zip and notch lapel pattern from different kind of small remnants felt like mad man’s job to do. There were so much pieces, what didn’t look of any real piece of pattern. They had to be sewed together first and directions of thread were wrong, some materials had extra seams from some former cloths, stretch and not stretch, some materials washed in washing machine and some never washed etc. But because notch lapel worked without doing even prototype of it, I thought that because I have touch left to do this, the rest will work the way or another. But oh boy, this outfit took much more time to sew than I thought!

Materials of the Vest

Back and front: Two different cotton satins, remnants of 99% cotton, 1% elastane, Eurokangas
Front and inner front: Two different polyester satins, 100% polyester and 98% polyester, 2% elastane, both recycled.
Collars and decoration: Reindeer leather remnants, Alhskog Leather
Lining: 100% viscose from Eurokangas
Buckram: 98% cotton, 2% glue from Eurokangas
Zip: Eurokangas
Studs: Niitit.fi

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I’m very satisfied to how much remnants I could use in the skirt of this outfit, but all the estimations of using time just went over… I have to admit, that my model Hanna, who also is educated professional for fashion sewed with overlocker, when I sewed with normal sewing machine about two hours when she arrived on photoshoot day. She also sewed silver wrist bands of remnant fabric as I asked, when I just sewed and sewed rounds to the skirt. When you do folds with tightening thread, there’s used “kilometers” of fabric to titivate. After photoshoot I still continued adding leather to this skirt and that is shown in the lowest photo. There has been used very much small pieces of different fabrics to this skirt.

Materials of Skirt:

Pieces on top of the skirt: Remnants of 99% cotton, 1% elastane and 100% cotton, originally from Eurokangas.
Layers:
– Reindeer leather remnants, Alhskog Leather
– Recycled organza, 100% polyester, Originally from Eurokangas.
– Tulle, 100% polyester, Tekstiilipalvelu Oy
– Metallic tricot remnants, 100% polyester, Eurokangas
– Chiffon remnants, 100% polyester, Eurokangas
– Cotton lace remnants, 100% cotton, Eurokangas
– Satin, 100% polyester and 98% polyester, 2% elastane, recycled
– 100% cotton remnants, Eurokangas
– 100% polyester remnants, Eurokangas
– two different laces, 100% polyester, Eurokangas
Zip: Recycled from some of my old skirt, Intian Basaari (if I remember right)
Buckram: 98% cotton, 2% glue from Eurokangas

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Helsinki Music Centre – The Place of the Photoshoot

This photoshoot was done in Helsinki Music Centre, what is good place to do this kind of things without any dividual reconciliation, but the place raised some thoughts from user’s and architectural point of views. Good things first, window walls are very nice and they fit very well in the area’s milieu design. There’s already window walls in Sanomatalo and becoming new buildings seem to have window walls too. Also two serial revolving doors on the other main entrance are timed perfectly together, what is surprising, because nearly all revolving doors are not working very user-friendly.

In it’s entity, Helsinki Music Centre anyway reminds little bit smaller Helsinki Airport from it’s materials and architectural dimensions. Corridors are huge and very long and pieces of furniture are not cosy, but very cold. On the other hand there’s two wooden stairs, what are very narrow compared to dimensions of corridors. I guess, that if you’re watching your concert on second floor and place is full, there will be jam on the stairs. Unfortunately I haven’t still heard any concerts in Helsinki Music Centre.

When you go to Music Centre, you should be prepared to walk “miles” and there’s no chance to go out from too many corners, but there’s only locked emergency exits. Also the main yard, there you should walk and walk. There’s no fairway on the corner of the building, but planted bushes and you should get around them about 50 metres from the corner. I think, that there’s something wrong with all dimensions of Helsinki Music Centre compared to where it is situated, because it is the only “automarket” for about 15 kilometres radius from center of Helsinki, but still there’s no parking space near to it…

Anyway, there’s that beautiful sculpture, what is lighted dramatically and Hanna did place much more beautiful to these shots.

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