Ethical Punk

 

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I have had an idea of making a jacket from remnants of fabric I printed 2004 to wear with denim vest for years. Finally this year I bought denim waistcoat from H&M’s summer sale and tuned it, like I showed in earlier post. Here’s a couple of photos how that idea looks, when it is accomplished and photos of whole new outfit of Natja K. F/W 2014/2015 without tuned waistcoat from H&M.

For the jacket I used the last pieces of skull stripe black denim, what I printed for my degree collection from Lahti Institute of Design in 2004. I have made earlier from the fabric men’s vest for my degree collection, shoulder bag, what I used to “end” and it doesn’t exist anymore and pillow cover to armchair, what I have upholstered. Front pieces of the jacket are made of the trouser legs, what I have cut off, when I made shorts. Back pieces and collars of the jacket are also remnants of materials.

Materials of Jacket:

Printed fabric: Black denim remnants originally bought from piece box from Eurokangas. 100% cotton. Printed myself.
Front: Trouser legs from the satin trousers bought from H&M. 100% polyester.
Back: Satin remnants bought from Eurokangas. 99% polyester, 1% elastane.
Collars: Remnants of reindeer leather from Ahlskog Leather, http://www.ahlskog.fi/en_GB
Cuffs: Rib from Eurokangas, 100% cotton.
Lining: 100% viscose from Eurokangas
Buckram: 98% cotton, 2% glue from Eurokangas
Zip: Recycled from “used to end” hoodie from H&M
Lace: 100% polyester from Eurokangas, http://www.eurokangas.fi/

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The idea for the dress has worked from the materials, what I already had in my stock. The dress is mean to be weekday cloth, what can be wore with trousers and some long sleeve shirt under it. Golden fabric is the cheering detail and it makes the dress interesting. Style of the dress is definitely chic punk.

Materials of Dress:

Front piece: Small remnant 70% polyester, 30% viscose from Eurokangas
Back pieces: Another small remnants 100% viscose from Eurokangas. Directions of the thread are “whatever”, because these were so last pieces.
The closest to neck piece: Recycled mesh from some flea market, 100% polyester
Gold part:Sample from the fabric from Ribes & Casals from Barcelona, 98% polyester, 2% elastane http://www.ribescasals.com/
Chiffon skirt:100% polyester from Eurokangas
Skirt under chiffon: Recycled H&M dress, 100% viscose

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I sewed also leggins to the outfit from metallic polyester lycra from Eurokangas, what I combined to cut tights. I have small stock of jewelry making stuff, what I use for making this collection’s jewelry. I have stuff what I have bought, found, got from somewhere and broken accessories for re-using. This outfit needed some necklaces to make punk style work and here’s the explanations about materials they are made of.

Accessories:

Thicker string necklace: Made of string from K-Rauta, http://www.k-rauta.com/. Glass pearls and lock from broken necklace from H&M. Black waxed cotton string from Tiimari. Fringes of reindeer leather remnants from Ahlskog Leather.
Thinner necklace: Metal string is recycled, but I don’t remember where I got it. Skull studs from Niitit.fi. Lamb leather remnants from Ahlskog Leather. Small heart studs and jewelry metal string from Tiimari, glass pearls from broken necklace from H&M and feather parts from broken earring I found.

Boots and gloves: Model’s own.

This photoshoot went very well, weather forecast didn’t betray us and we got the sunshine, Hanna was once again excellent model and I can be satisfied for so many shots, that here’s only some of them.

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Bella Rosa Jacket – Introduction for Natja K. F/W 2014/15

 

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I have been thinking and researching many years about ethical fashion and what it is. There’s so many points that make clothes ethical: origin and manufacturing of fibres and fabric, additional materials, sewing of the clothes, other processes in manufacturing and transportation of the products. One point is always who makes the clothes and in what kind of circumstances. When you sew yourself or buy from some small business owner, who produces clothes somewhere near, you can be sure about ethical aspects from that part. I have had so much ideas for fashion design for years, what I have been up to accomplish. Eventually I got enough time and I started to design small collection of Natja K. clothes.

Philosophy behind this Natja K. Fall/Winter 2014/2015 collection is that the clothes are made mainly from the materials I already have in my little stock. I have stored a lot of pieces of the fabrics, what left from some clothes I made, but there’s not anymore left enough fabric to do something new only from that one material. I have also used a lot of recycled materials from second hand shops and flea markets, what I have been bought only to make some new design. I have been also cut off every working zip, button, band and rib, that were in good shape after some cloth had been used out otherwise.

I also have to use some new materials like lining, thread, buckram, sometimes zips or buttons, what are mainly bought from Eurokangas. Also many remnants are originally bought from there. Eurokangas tells something about how ethical their fabrics are in their website in Finnish. Here’s the link: http://www.eurokangas.fi/foorumi/6-yleinen-keskustelu/1864-eettiset-kankaat

Here’s the translation:

The product safety is very important to Eurokangas, as well as the origin and ethics of the products we sell. Eurokangas also pays attention to these issues in the purchasing.

All our suppliers commit themselves to adopting the purchase order, that the products have been produced with the ethical and environmental standards of the organizations of United Nations. Products can’t contain banned or restricted chemicals in accordance to the current EU chemical regulations.

For ensuring the product safety and the conditions of production we use long-term, reliable supplier relations, as well as short and open supplier chains.

To enhance transparency of product information we announce the voluntary information of the country of origin. By notifying the country of origin of product information we want to convey the message, that there’s not anything to hide.

Of course that doesn’t make all the fabrics in Eurokangas ethical, but by making choices what you buy from there is the solution for being ethical. In my Natja K. Fall/Winter 2014/2015 collection the philosophy is anyway to use existing material, what have stood a long time in my closets, recycled materials and remnants.

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In this editorial photoshoot for Bella Rosa Jacket for Natja K. Fall/Winter 2014/2015 the dress is much older Natja K. design, it is from year 2002. The materials of the dress are from Eurokangas and Neppinappi. Bella Rosa Jacket got it’s final name from the photoshoot place, the cultivar of the pink roses in the Winter Garden is Bella Rosa.

 

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The idea of Bella Rosa Jacket came about by viewing materials, what I had in my stock. I have strong own vision for fashion design and I just knew what I wanted to do.

Materials:

Velvet fabric with pink embroidery – flea market (about 15 years ago)
Black leather – remnants from lamb and reindeer leather from Alhskog Leather http://www.ahlskog.fi/en_GB
Materials in sleeve: two different remnants of cotton and wool fabrics from Eurokangas
Lining: 100% viscose from Eurokangas
Buckram: cotton from Eurokangas
Rib: 99% cotton, 1% elastane from Eurokangas
As a new article I had to buy: Zip from Eurokangas http://www.eurokangas.fi/eurokangas-eng

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Accessories:

Pink necklace: My old necklace made of pearls from year 1983, what has been broken about 25 years. Skull is Halloween decoration trash from Tiimari from the time I worked there and it has been painted with black acryl paint. The eyes of the skull are from pink necklace and they are glued with hot-setting adhesive. All materials but necklace from Tiimari.
Grey necklace: from Kallio Park flea market, bought originally from New York
Hair accessory: Hair band from H&M, pearls from Christmas decoration from Tiimari, skull piece from some boutique from Amsterdam, black tulle from Tekstiilipalvelu Oy

Tights, socks and mittens: H&M
Shoes: Vagabond

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Nuuskamuikkunen Look

 

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I’ve been sewing quite many clothes lately, but I’m still working on more, because I have little collection mission going on. Anyway, this cardigan and cosy are made earlier, but never photoshooted properly, so I post first this “normal outfit post”.

This cap is actually knitted by my mom maybe in 2001 or so. I asked her to knit that for me. I don’t knit or crochet myself at all. I did it quite a lot as a hobby, when I was in elementary school, but as an adult I have concentrated on sewing. When I’m wearing this cosy, people walking by are often smiling, because it looks probably funny in their opinion. That kind of caps were hit on catwalks over ten years ago and on time to time still appearing on some designers’ collections.

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This cardigan is made of Versace’s knit fabric, what was bought from Eurokangas in 2009. I have checked if this knit fabric has been seen on Versace’s catwalk shows ever, but no it isn’t. Tassels are made from reindeer leather from Ahlskog Leather.

 

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