Waste Side Story fashion show, what I went to see on last Friday was the best catwalk what I’ve ever seen live for many reasons. It was ecological, there was interesting and fresh small collections from 10 small Finnish brands + Alex Noble Workshop creations, show was contiguous but varying, styled and produced successfully. That is unfortunately too rare in Finland.
The show was part of Helsinki Design Week 2014 and it was held in Teurastamo’s Autohalli on September 12th. Pure Waste Textiles had offered their 100% recycled denims and tricots to Finnish small brand designers to make small collections for the show (wish I would have been one of the lucky ones!).
Pure Waste Textiles started in 2013 and it won immediately Fashion Act of the Year 2013 prize. Their textiles are the first 100% recycled fabrics in the world made of the waste of mainstream textile industry such as leftover cuttings, cotton and threads. Denims are made in China and cotton tricots in India. In their factories there’s also taken care of safety, workers rights and there’s nearly all the time some Finnish person present watching that everything works ethically and legally right.
Owners and inventors of Pure Waste Textiles have also company called Costo, where’s on sale accessories and T-shirts what they have designed from Pure Waste fabrics. There was used a lot of Costo’s accessories for styling in Waste Side Story fashion show.
Probably the favorite from all designers in the show was I Made This. Designer Tiina Palm had dyed and bleached denim and tricots on different techniques from hand painting to batik dye. She had also made knit from tricots, what she had dyed for different color tones. Clothes were hippie style but at the same time fresh and new. It was also nice that some of the clothes were more colorful in the show, because there were naturally used a lot of tones of blue denim and white and black tricots, Pure Waste Textile’s colors.
Another collection, what tickled my taste was Pogostick Failure’s punk style. Their ideas for clothes were based on large patch type punk prints and different characters like boxer and cheerleader for styling clothes to show. When the show was based on waste fabrics and the show got name Waste Side Story print “Wasted” got also a new meaning. Good street fashion!
Haldin’s collection varied the most from the others, because they had so colorful prints, what had changed white and black jerseys to look their own style. I got information how their prints were done straight from Leena Haldin, who told that on white jerseys they had first printed base colours with open screen and then prints from their Fall collection on top. On black jersey they had printed the Fall prints. They had also done one intarsia knit from the black and white jersey. Haldin really has own, beautiful and advanced style to do their printed fabrics.
Poola Kataryna had also more colorful collection than the most of the other designers and she had used some of fabrics what can be seen in use also in her former collection on her website. She used also Pure Waste Textile’s dark denim and tricots and she had designed funny “emoticon” type folio print. I read from her website that she her print patterns were handprinted in Forssa and I think that that folio prints for this show were printed there too.
In fashion shows there’s good to be showstopper outfit or couple and for this show Paula Malleus with her indians and pannier denim “princess” dresses did that with her entire collection. Clothes were more theater costumes than fashion even without headpieces, but they were still imaginatively done and a good as a proof from her sewing skills. Without them the show wouldn’t be so ambitious and pannier dresses looked great on catwalk.
Alex Noble Workshop was held as workshop in Helsinki Design Week, where people could sign up. Alex Noble is style guru, who has done art, fashion, films and event design. He has designed for instance to Lady Gaga. Workshop was held if I understood in the same day and I think that those who were got in the workshop had already sewed something from the Pure Waste Textile’s fabrics and the clothes were styled with Alex Noble’s assistance. I think there have been participants mainly from the designers of the show. In the picture on right below is the last outfit of the show and as you see, there’s only coat, not entire outfit.
Waste Side Story fashion show was produced by Marjo Kuusinen, who has designed and arranged fashion shows before for Kaksi Två. Stylist, who had done excellent work with Costo and Aarikka was Annette Heiskanen and beautiful models were from Studio Eneas. All the clothing designers in the show were Arela, Burlesque Tsunami, Haldin, I Made This, Liisa Riski, Nurmi, Poola Kataryna, Pogostick Failure, Paula Malleus/Remake EkoDesign and Riivari. Accessories and jewellery were by Aarikka, COSTO and Nannanda. Shoes by Saint Vacant and Anna Artemova, Burlesque Tsunami, Emmi Malmström Shoes and RARA.
Some of the designers have made only a couple of collections, but they anyway had their own small branded company. Waste Side Story was excellent opportunity to present clothes in “proper” big fashion show for small company designers. There would be a good possibility to raise up Finnish fashion design brands for audience and start to arrange a couple of bigger fashion shows consisting of small brand designers in Helsinki Design Week. Small Helsinki Fashion Week inside Helsinki Design Week would be good!
See all the photos I took from the show here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/98052824@N03/sets/72157647217706749/